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Landscape Lighting

Low-Voltage Landscape Lighting

Low-voltage path lighting, tree uplighting, transformers and timers installed for Raleigh and Wake County properties, planned around mature tree canopy.

Low-voltage lighting runs on 12 volts stepped down from household current through a transformer, which is why it can be installed in a garden bed without the trenching and conduit a line-voltage system demands. Back 40 designs and installs path lights, uplights, transformers and timer control. Every system is quoted per project, because the fixture count and the cable runs come out of the property, not out of a package.

A freshly cut lawn with clean edges

The fixture types and what each one is for

  • Path lights cast down and outward in a pool. They belong along a walk, at steps and at grade changes, spaced so the pools overlap slightly instead of reading as a runway of separate dots.
  • Uplights sit at or below grade and aim up into a tree, a column or a textured wall. Beam angle is the decision: a narrow spot to reach the top of a tall oak, a wider flood to fill a lower canopy.
  • Wash and graze fixtures put light across a surface. Grazing close to brick or stone throws shadow into every joint and makes texture read; washing from further back evens it out.
  • Downlights mounted up in a tree throw a broad, soft pattern down through the branches. On a property with big hardwoods this often looks better than lighting from the ground, and it lights the actual walking surface.
  • Well lights sit flush with grade where a fixture cannot stick up — in a lawn edge, a driveway apron or anywhere a mower runs.
Planted beds edged and mulched

What an install includes

  • Path and step fixtures
  • Uplighting for trees and architectural features
  • Transformer sizing and mounting
  • Timer or photocell control and zoning
A suburban home with a maintained front lawn

Next step

Lighting is best planned at dusk, on site, with a demo fixture. Call (720) 869-7552 to set that up anywhere in Wake County or Durham.

A wooden fence line along a property boundary

Included

What the job covers

Typical range: Quoted per project

Coverage

Landscape Lighting near you

Questions

Before you call

What is worth lighting?

Less than most people assume. A landscape lit evenly and brightly all over looks like a parking lot. The good version is selective: enough on steps, grade changes and the walk to the front door for safety, then a few deliberate features. Around here the obvious feature is tree canopy. The mature willow oaks and pin oaks in older Raleigh neighborhoods have real structure, and a couple of well-aimed uplights into a canopy does more for a house at night than a dozen fixtures along a driveway.

Facade lighting works on brick and on textured stone, where grazing light picks up relief. On flat vinyl it usually just makes a bright patch, so it is often better spent elsewhere.

Why do beam angle and color temperature matter?

Because they decide whether a system looks designed or looks like fixtures in a yard. Beam angle controls how much of the target gets lit: a wide flood aimed at a tall trunk throws most of its output past the tree and into the neighbor's window, while a narrow spot on a low shrub makes a hot spot with dark ground around it.

Color temperature decides the mood, and mixing it is what makes a landscape look unplanned. Warmer light flatters brick, bark, mulch and painted wood the way a porch light does. Cooler light reads blue against foliage and, next to a warm entry fixture, immediately looks wrong. Picking one temperature and holding it across the whole property matters more than the exact number.

Glare is the third factor. A fixture that shines into your eyes as you walk up the drive is worse than no fixture, so uplights get shielded, aimed away from sight lines and set back where they can be.

How does the wiring survive out there?

Direct-burial cable, buried at a consistent depth, with connections made in waterproof connectors rather than twisted and taped. That last detail is where cheap installs fail. Piedmont clay traps water against a buried splice and holds it there, and corrosion at a connection shows up as a fixture that flickers or dies a year in. Runs also have to be routed with a plan for the future — bed edges get re-cut, aeration happens every fall, and someone will eventually dig a hole for a shrub. Knowing where the cable is prevents that.

How do transformers and timers get sized?

Transformer capacity is matched to total fixture load with headroom to add later, and voltage drop over long runs gets calculated instead of guessed, since a light at the far end of an undersized run reads dim and yellow. Control is usually an astronomic timer or a photocell, which follows sunset through the year rather than needing a seasonal reset. Zoning matters too: path and entry lighting on one schedule, feature lighting on another, so the whole system is not burning all night.

What does a lighting system need after it is installed?

Less than a lawn, but not nothing. Fixtures get bumped by mowers, string trimmers and dogs, and an uplight knocked two inches off aim goes from lighting a tree to lighting a bedroom window. Aiming gets checked periodically.

Lenses collect pollen in the spring and a film of dirt the rest of the year, and a dirty lens quietly dims a fixture until someone assumes the lamp is failing. Mulch is the other slow problem: each annual top-up buries a well light or a low uplight a little further until it is shining into mulch. Fixtures get lifted back to grade when a bed is redone.

Trees also grow. A fixture aimed at a young canopy is aimed at a trunk five years later, and an uplight installed a foot from a trunk ends up pressed against bark as the tree thickens. Setting fixtures back from young trunks at install is easier than moving them later.

Can lighting be added to an existing system?

Usually, and the two limits are the transformer and the cable. Adding fixtures means adding load, so the existing transformer needs enough spare capacity, and the added run has to be checked for voltage drop rather than simply spliced onto whatever wire is nearest.

Older systems with corroded connections, undersized wire or failed fixtures are worth assessing before extending. Sometimes the right answer is replacing the fixtures on a sound cable run, and sometimes the wiring itself is the thing that has to go. That gets sorted out on site rather than guessed at from the number of lights in the yard.

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