Pressure Washing for Homes and Driveways

<p>Humidity. The Triangle spends months warm and damp, and surfaces that never get direct sun stay wet long after the rest of the property dries. That is why the north-facing wall of a house is the dirty one, why the section of driveway under a tree canopy goes green while the open half stays gray, and why a shaded concrete walk turns slick. The organism is living on the surface, so blasting it off mechanically only takes the top layer. It comes back fast. Treating the surface so the growth is actually killed is what makes the result last.</p>

<p>No. High pressure on siding drives water up behind the panels and into the wall assembly, and it can leave permanent striping on the surface. Siding gets a low-pressure application of cleaner, dwell time, and a rinse. The cleaning is chemical; the water is only there to carry it and take it away. Wood siding and painted trim are handled even more gently, since a hard tip will fuzz soft wood grain in one pass.</p>

<p>Concrete drives and walks take real pressure, and a surface cleaner attachment gives an even result instead of the zebra striping a wand leaves behind. Older concrete gets tested first — decades of freeze cycles and traffic can leave the top layer soft enough to erode. Brick and mortar joints need restraint, because blowing out mortar is expensive to fix. Wood decks are the most delicate: too much pressure raises the grain and gouges softwood, so decks get washed at low pressure and, if the boards are being refinished afterward, cleaned in a way that leaves them ready to take stain.</p>

<p>After the heavy spring pollen finishes falling, so you are not cleaning the same surface twice in three weeks. Deck washing is best paired with sealing while the wood is clean. Call (720) 869-7552 with the surfaces you want quoted.</p>